Food for Life: Kevin Thornton's Weblog

It has been a while and I always mean to put stuff on the blog, At the moment we are making a new TV Program called Heat, it is going well but tough going we shot one program and are in the middle of the next one , there are six in all its about people who want to run a restaurant for a day and it is pretty good so far.
We have decided not to do the taste of Dublin this year as there is so much on at the moment But more exciting I am doing Electric Picnic in September.
We are doing some exciting things in the restaurant at the moment White Asparagus with Truffle Hollondaise and John Dory Here is the Recepie for the WHITE ASPARAGUS IT IS AMAZING YOU SHOULD TRY IT

It is just the start of the season of one of my favourite vegetables – asparagus. Only the young shoots are eaten and it has a wonderful delicate flavour. Asparagus is low in calories, contains no fat or cholesterol and is low in sodium. It is also a good source of folic acid, potassium and fibre and is rich in amino acid. Asparagus also has medicinal properties, being a diuretic. French asparagus is in the shops at the moment as Irish asparagus won’t be available until late May or so. The first asparagus of the season is the best. Growing asparagus is quite tricky and it takes a few seasons to get it right. White asparagus has a very different flavour and texture to green asparagus and is grown in dark deprived of light hence its white colour. I devised this dish which marries together wonderful flavours that are so well suited and it is a big hit at Thornton’s at this time of year.

Cooking in Cashel

When I was approached by a TV company last December asking if I would be interested in cooking for a number of guests in an unusual place for one night only, I though that this was a project I could really get my teeth into as I am every up for a challenge. The night would be filmed for part of a series called Guerrilla Gourmet to be shown on RTE in January and February.

The first thing that came to mind was a hay barn. The idea of cooking on a farm where most of the food would come really appealed to me. However there were a number of obstacles. Hay barns aren’t known for being too clean, and as the filming would take place in November, it was going to be cold and damp. Then there was the combination of fire and hay - not the safest - so I had to abandon plan one.

Then I got to thinking about the Rock of Cashel. Straight away it seemed to be the perfect location. As a Cashel boy I had grown up with this magnificent building in my back yard, and knew it like the back of my hand from playing there throughout my childhood.

First off was the business of getting the approval of the OPW and I really thought that my plan would fall at the first hurdle. To my surprise they were open to the idea, but there were several conditions they placed on the building’s use; basically it needed to be treated with the utmost respect. So, the venue was decided and now I had to make it work as a gourmet dinner party destination for 25 guests.

I loved the idea of cooking in this treasure of a building where the last food served up would have been in the 15th century. I also wanted to re-create the conditions under which this food would have been prepared, so I opted to cook in the open air with not much more than camping gear. Well, if you want to give yourself a challenge, it may as well be a mother of a one.

Muriel worked out the logistics of the operation, and, feeling very pleased with ourselves because of the progress we had made, I started to get very excited about the prospect of doing this in my hometown, but also apprehensive as this was going to be the toughest audience of all to please. To make it even more special I wanted to source all of the ingredients locally, and keep the menu in tune with what would have been eaten by the castle’s inhabitants at the time, cooked in my own style.

It was a long time since I had lived in Cashel, so I called my cousin Nicky who has my granddad’s farm now, and asked him if I could milk the cows and make fresh butter for the meal. I called to Jenny’s to get the freshest free range eggs and so on I went collecting my ingredients from various purveyors around the town. In the meantime I was meeting lots of people I hadn't seen in years and it was turning out to be good fun. I got a lot of “its great to see one of our own doing well for himself in Dublin, fair play to ya buy!” from the locals.

The rabbit I used for the main course was snared locally as there were no guns available in the 15th Century. Next was the fish. I wanted to get it from the River Sure where I used to go fishing when I was a kid. However, my memories were not going to get me the salmon or trout I needed as the river is now heavily polluted by the factories in Thurles and fish stocks are way down. I had to look to the sea.

I wanted the best and if I couldn't get it in Cashel I knew where I could. I got my diving gear and headed to Bear Island in Cork and got the most wonderful scallops and sea urchins.

Next on the list was cheese. This one was easy as I had Cashel Blue and Crozier Blue on my doorstep, and you can’t get much better than that. The pudding was a little more difficult – as I didn’t have an oven I had to be a bit more creative. In the end I used pears from my own garden and made a pear sorbet with pear parfait and poached pear. I brought a bottle of Co2 gas and made dried ice to use as my refrigeration.

I was really happy with the menu – I had managed to find top quality produce, all in season, and all sourced within a 100 mile radius of the venue. I have to say that this was not easy; it is far easier to get rubbish than quality, and certain ingredients are nigh on impossible to find outside of Dublin.

Then the proverbial hit the fan. I was told that I couldn’t get full access to the building until 4.30pm on the day – dinner was at 7.30pm. This is were Muriel took over and put all of the equipment and team in place to turn it all around within the very limited time that we had been allocated. Now I was beginning to see the grief I had caused for myself by choosing not to cook with electricity, but It was too late now as I was committed to the idea of keeping the whole event in the spirit of the venue and the occasion. It was then that I decided to open a hot line for the day to Cormac the High King of Munster, to help me make the night as magical as I wanted it to be.

The day dawned and it couldn’t have been worse – rain, wind and cold. As we transformed the Bishops Coral into our dining room for the night we were battling with varying temperatures, distance from plating to delivering, needing brollies for the rain – the list was endless. However as the evening wore on, the rain and wind died, the stars came out, and as the castle became illuminated with lights and candles, the scene was set for a very memorable occasion. A Gregorian chanter led the guests to the cathedral through the candlelight and the wonderful night began.

Would I do it again……
(c)

Dublin Corporation Fruit and Vegetable Market on St Michan's Street in Smithfield
 is a wonderful place to visit with around 30 stallholders selling
fruit and vegetables, flowers and plants.  The wholesale market first opened in 1892 and the building is
one of Dublin's least known architectural treasures.  Some of the stalls have been run by families
for up to 5 generations.  Derek Leonard's great grandmother was one of the first to set up
stall in 1892 and he still carries on the family tradition.  The sale of fish, meat and vegetables
in the area of the market has been carried on since medieval times when St Mary's Abbey held fairs on the Green
(now the site of Green St Courthouse).  Later there were markets around Green Street and St Mary's Lane.
 

chocolate

Pastries and Desserts
 
Learning how to make pastry and bake can take time and lots of patience.  But it is also an area of cooking that you can have the most fun with when you get it right and what could be more rewarding than to see the pleasure your guests derive from eating your delicious pastries and desserts.
 
In a professional kitchen the pastry area is usually kept in a different location from the hot kitchen due to the humidity.  When you become as a commis chef or an apprentice, the pastry section is usually where you start.  This is for a number of reasons, discipline being the first.  As everything has to be measured correctly you learn how to be precise.  The other reason is that it allows you to be creative, and, as presentation is key you can give full rein to your artistic flair. 
 
As both baking and pastry rely on the way ingredients interact with eachother, it is considered by many to be a science.  So, to be a good pastry chef it is not only important to know how to create dishes, but to understand the basics behind the way the ingredients function as well. 
 
When I was training I spent two years in a pastry shop in Canada.  I thought that if I was going to be a head chef one day I wanted to know exactly what I was talking about.  Due to this experience, by the time I got my first head chef position I was able to go into the pastry corner and come up with my own pastry dished and ready to go. 
 
To be honest, unlike other areas of the kitchen, not much has really changed in pastry making since the 1800s when Antonin Careme, one of the greatest pastry chefs of all time, is said to have elevated French pastry to an art form.
 
Chocolate is a key ingredient for the pastry chef and today I will show you how to make chocolate truffles.  Most of us love chocolate and will have bought them for someone we care about at some time or other in our lives.  How impressed do you think they would be if you were able to say that you made them yourself! That is the magic of food; a little bit of effort speaks volumes about how much you care.  This recipe might be a good way of winning someone’s heart this Valentine’s Day.
 
 
The secret of chocolate is understanding what happens when it is heated – what it likes and doesn’t like.  Taking a short cut doesn’t work, and you just end up spending lots of time fixing it.
 
To make Truffles you will need some good quality chocolate like Valhrona, Opera, Calabeau or Green and Blacks.  You can buy bars of these brands in most quality supermarkets or delicatessens. 
 
Ganache for Chocolate Truffles
1/2 L of Cream
250 g of 70% Chocolate
200 g of 62% Chocolate 
100g of Salted Butter
20g of coco powder for rolling the ganache 
(Optional Hazelnuts in the cent if you wish)
 
 
Method 
 
Heat the cream until it just comes to the boil.
Roughly chop the chocolate and melt over a bain-marie (pot of water where you can add another container on top)
Add half of the melted chocolate to the cream and mix, add the remainder of the chocolate and mix well.
Cut the butter into small pieces and fold it into the chocolate cream.
Place the chocolate into a dry clean container and cover it with a lid and rest until set in the refrigerator.
Remove and with a small spoon roll the ganache into small balls
Sprinkle coco powder on the palms of your hands and roll the balls again being careful that chocolate doesn't melt.
Place the balls into the fridge for approx 20 minutes to set
 
Now they are ready for dipping in couverture chocolate to finish them off, or indeed as often happens at home, many are eaten at this stage!  
 
 
Tempering Chocolate;
 
The process for preparing chocolate to use to coat truffles or to put in chocolate moulds for chocolates is called tempering. Chocolate moulds can be obtained for specialist food equipment shops or via mail order.  Tempering chocolate is very easy to do but you have to be careful. This is how I do it:

Use 1 kg of chocolate, keeping back 100g for later use 
Chop 900g of chocolate into even pieces and place in a stainless steel bowl,
Place the bowl over a pot of simmering water making sure no liquid
or moisture comes in contact with the chocolate so the water should be barely simmering.
Stir the chocolate so it melts evenly and maintains an even temperature
Bring the temperature of the chocolate up to 40c.  Use a thermometer for an accurate reading.
Remove the chocolate once it has reached 40c - make sure it doesn't go above 43c or the chocolate will be damaged. 
Add the 100g of chocolate cut into 4 pieces to the rest of the chocolate and melt it until the chocolate reaches 33c. And then to 29c but Do not bring the chocolate below 29c as you will have to repeat the same process again as it will lose the shine you are looking for.  Tempered Chocolate should coat the back of a spoon and have a good shine from it
Now the chocolate is ready for use.
The chocolate can now be used to cover the ganache balls for truffles or poured into the chocolate moulds to make chocolates.  Place the ganache balls on a cocktail stick and dip into the tempered chocolate.  Then use a piece of air board or a potato to hold the cocktail sticks so you get an even coating.  
 
If you want to decorate the truffles, place some of the remaining chocolate into a small piping bag and off you go. 
 Happy Valentines Day!
Kevin Thornton

Things don’t always go to plan

Things don’t always go to plan.
It was a full on December. Lots of activity and a few casualties. I always believe it is the time that separates the mice from the men in the restaurant as it is the time when you do two months business in three weeks. Lunch goes on into dinner and dinner goes on into breakfast and we are all stretched to the limit. Some crack and the rest carry on like soldiers. For the first time ever we decide not to open for lunch on Christmas Eve and the family were to head off to New York to visit and catch up with friends.
Only a few days to go but by Wednesday I don’t feel to well and know I am coming down with something. Its a pretty alien feeling as I can usually fend off illness through dogged determination. This is not going away and the chill in my bones persists. I make it to Saturday night and after service I finally crash. The next day a much needed visit from the Doctor confirms I have full blown influenza and our hopes to travel on Christmas Eve have to be postponed. I slept for two days solid fighting a temperature of 41 degrees and a strong course of anti-biotics is prescribed. The month’s 16 hour days have taken their toll and my adrenelin has run out. By Christmas Day I’m feeling a little better and friends insist we join them for dinner. For the first time in a very long while I’m being fed on Christmas Day as usually we have at least 12 for dinner at home and its me at the helm. It was a very welcome retreat to be pampered and not to have to lift a finger.
We re-arranged our plans and flew to New York on 27th instead to spend New Year in the Big Apple. In the lobby of the Waldorf Astoria where we were staying we bumped into the first of many friends also visiting New York. The Waldorf is a fine establishment, classical 1930’s art deco design which has recently been restored to its former glory. We met Gemma Keating, from Limerick, who is Senior Sales Manager at the Waldorf, having been there for the past three and half years.
Lunch and dinner plans were made to include Per Se (Tom Keller’s 3 star), Babbo (one of many in Mario Betali’s empire) and L’Atelier at the Four Seasons (one of Joel Robuchon’s excellent chain). Dean and Delucca’s in Soho was an adventure and I picked up some great, though expensive, white ceramic kitchen knives.
Babbo is a simple, italian restaurant though our expectations were high considering its almost impossible to get a reservation there. We were 8 in our party (Sharon Egan and her sons and friends joined us). Sharon worked with me as a chef at Thornton’s many years ago before heading back to Montclair (her home town) and setting up a bar with her husband Chris (formerly of Lillie’s Bordello and Bruxelles). We drank a superb 1963 Borolo and I have to say the food was not too memorable.
Per Se at the Time Warner building was next. When making the reservation we were informed of their dress code which is very strict (not something we subscribe to at Thornton’s where we do not discriminate on the basis of dress). I was a little taken aback when we arrived to notice the staff uniforms were more than a little dirty! Per Se is expensive - 9 course menu only on offer at 250 dollars per person. Wines chosen for you are a further 150 dollars. On top they charge supplements for certain dishes so escaping without paying at least 500 dollars per person is not an option. I was reminded of the value for money that Thornton’s offers by comparison.
The renovation at Thornton’s last year was designed by New York based Architect David Piskuskas of 1100 Architects and we spent New Year’s Eve at his home with David and his partner Betty cooking for us. Another treat and a comfortable, relaxed evening spent in good company with home cooking and lovely wines and champagne. Times Square seemed like a great idea early in the day but as the evening progressed we decided to give it a miss as the crowds had started to assemble from very early afternoon.
Next day we met up with my cousin Ann Thornton who’s been living in New Haven for many years. We went to Pastis in the Meat Packing District an area which is very up and coming boasting many restaurants. Rents here are a little cheaper. Here we bumped into some more Irish people - such a small world! The hostess as Pastis was extremely rude and dealt with our being late in a very bad manner. The experience was a sharp reminder of how valuable good staff are and we remarked at how proud we are of our staff at Thornton’s.
The best dining out experience of our trip had to be L’Atelier at the Four Seasons. Joel Robuchon is a master. We’ve eaten at L’Atelier in Paris and Monaco and each experience of his restaurants have been entirely memorable. Great flavours, friendly knowledgeable service and comparatively reasonable pricing.
Culturally we took in the Bodies exhibition at Seaport which is a must see. While educational and fascinating it is not for the faint-hearted. A visit to MOMA is always a welcome break from the mayhem and bustle of the New York streets.
This break however was about meeting up with friends and catching up. We also could not escape fulfilling the needs of our 13 year old fashion fix in the form of Abercrombie and Fitch. Long queues to enter the Fifth Avenue store continue all day and once inside the hoards of shoppers are laden down with items and queue again to be parted with their cash. I can see why the kids love it - dark moody lighting, loud music, fragrance filled air and the main pre-requisite to being employed there is good looks and a good physique. The guys pose naked from the waist up welcoming you to the store and willing you to spend, spend, spend.
The hottest places to eat in New York at the moment according to Adam Platt’s Where to Eat 2008 are certain restaurants where no reservations are taken. One such place, The Waverly Inn requires you to have a special phone number o email address or just to show up and beg to get it!! I can’t report if its worth all the hype - it and others like it are for another trip. For now, its back to Dublin, to a new year and to new experiences. Happy New Year.

Meat Matters

It could be said that the first recorded representational artworks - cave paintings of hunting scenes — were about meat.

Many of us are seeking a closer relationship with what we eat, and finding in that relationship a source of new insight and creative inspiration. This is true of all of the food groups, but perhaps none more so that meat as provenance really does make a huge difference.

It is also true that meat isn’t a straightforward or neutral topic. For some eating meat it is a basic fact of life; for others it is a moral quandary. At Thorntons we cater comprehensively for meat and non-meat eaters, and for me the most important thing is that the meat I use and eat is fully traceable, and of the highest quality.

Meat can be broken down into four different categories:

1. Carcass Meat; Beef, Veal, Lamb, Mutton, Hogget, Pork and Goat
2. Offal; Internal organs of animals; liver, kidney, heart, tongue, oxtail, crubeens, sweetbreads (glands).
3. Poultry; Chicken, Duck, Guinea Fowl, Quail, Turkey and Goose
4. Game; Four Legged; Venison, Wild Boar ,Rabbit and Hare,
Two Legged; Pheasant, Partridge, Grouse, Plover, Wild Duck (Teal, Mallard) Woodcock and Snipe

This week I am going to look at beef, lamb and offal, and share some of my favourite recipes with you.

BEEF

We produce great beef in this country, mostly Angus but also some French Limousine. As with all of the food we buy, it is important to know where it comes from, and your butcher should be able to tell you exactly which farm your beef originates from.

Beef should always be aged before it is cooked. A good butcher will usually hang his meat for twenty one days plus in a refrigerated room with controlled humidity. This makes the enzymes present in the meat break down the fibres, tenderizing it and giving it a more pronounced flavour.

When choosing a cut of beef make sure that the colour is dark red, meaning it has been aged and it should have some fat running through it like marble. If both of these requirements are met you are off to a good start.

There are various cuts of beef; chuck; this is from the neck and is used for braising and stewing. Rib; the most prized part of the animal, best used for roasting and steaks because it is so tender. Loin; another prime cut of beef which is used like the rib (and hence the name sirloin steaks). Round; this cut is from the leg and is usually used for braising but if handled well and hung for a longer period it can be roasted with great care. Shank; used for stewing, roasting or consommé. Flank; this is good for grilling or barbequing. Brisket; this is used for corned beef and is really good for a pot roast. Fillet; The most prized part of the animal. It is used for roasting (whole), for steaks (fillet steak) or for Steak Tartar when it is cut into 1/2 cm pieces served with diced shallot, capers, chives and raw egg yolk.

Veal is milk fed or a nature fed calf that never eats grass or grain so its colour is a very pale pink. It is slaughtered at about twenty weeks old so it much more tender than beef. The flavour of veal is quite neutral therefore it is great with items that have a strong flavour such as Lobster and Morels. This is one of my favourite veal recipes. While this recipe may appear complicated, all you have to remember is that it is made up of four parts, each of which can stand on its own or be used together like I have done here.

F

Chicken Stock

Chicken Stock;
This is best using Boiling Fowl
Ingredients;
3 Boiling Fowls about 1 kg each
500g of Miripoix( Carrot, Leek,Celery sticks, Onion, garlic)
1 Small Bunch of Thyme
1 Small Bunch of Tarragon
1 Small Bunch of Parsley
5 l of water or Remouillage
50 g of Whole White Pepper corns
1 Bouquet garni
Method;
1.Wash the Chickens in running water place in a pot cover with water and bring to the boil refresh with cold water I do this to remove any impurities from the Chicken.
2. Place the chicken in a pot, add the Mirepoix with the herbs ,Pepper corns and Bouquet garni
3. Add the water or Remouillage, bring to the boil and turn down the heat and simmer for approximately 5 1/2 Hours, Skim the surface frequently to remove the impurities
4. Rest the stock for 20 minuets and Strain through a muslin cloth and strainer, Cool down in a bath of cold water, cover and Refregriate again you can freeze in small quantities
I also do a triple stock and this is done by doing the exact same thing three times each time using the same stock and fresh Chickens it is really superb.
Vegetable Stock or Nage ;
this stock i use for Vegetarians and Making Risotto
Ingredients;
200g New season Onions
200g Leeks
6 Celery Hearts
4 Whole Carrots
2 Whole Fennel Bulbs
10 Baby Fennel
7 Radish
20 whole white Pepper Corns
10 Star Anise
3 cloves
5g Fennel Seed
1 Small Bunch of Basil
1 small Bunch of Tarragon
1. small Bunch of Flat leaf parsley
1 Small Bunch of Dill
1/2 l of Dry Martini
1/2 L of dry white wine
4 L of Still Water
Method;
1. Wash and Peel all the Vegetables 2. Place in a pot with the rest of the Ingredients add the wine, martini and Water.
3. Bring to the boil and turn down the heat and simmer slowly for 2 Hours.
4. Cool down
5. Place the Vegetables and stock in a Preserving Jar. Refregriate
Brown Stock;
Veal Bones
Veal Feet
Miripoix
Fresh Herbs
Whole White Peppercorns
Remouillage
Olive Oil
Thyme
Bay Leaf
Red Wine
Method ;
1. Brown the Bones in a deep roasting pan and place in a hot oven at 170c, turn the bones in the oven to make sure they are evenly brown
2. Remove the bones and place in a stock pot, remove the Fat( and Discard)
De-glaze the roasting pan with red wine and a little Water ( this is done by replacing the roasting pan on direct heat to clean the pan cook for two minuets and pour into the stock pot.
3. Add a Veal foot to the stock and fill the pot with the remouliage. There should be a 1/4 more stock to bones, bring to the boil and simmer, Remove the scum from the top, Simmer for eight hours
4. Add the Miripoix and herbs and cook for a further two hours, all the time remove the impurities from the top of the stock.
5. Strain the stock into a pot using a strainer and Muslin Cloth
Cool the stock in a bath of Iced Water, cover and refregriate until further use.
The stock should be a jelly substance this is cause by the Gelatins from the bones and the Veal feet, There will also be a cover of fat on the top this is important as it protects the stock.

Risotto

Risotto ;
One of the all-time Italian classics, risotto is now a popular choice worldwide and it's easier to cook than many people think.
There are many theories as to how to make the perfect risotto but there are a couple of key points everyone agrees on: you need the right type of the rice and you need a decent, hot stock.
How you add the stock is a matter for debate. Traditionally it's ladled over the rice and lots of stirring takes place until the stock is absorbed. However, modern time-saving methods involve adding all the stock at once and popping the whole thing in the oven or just cooking it gently over the stove. I still like to do mine the old fashioned way though!
With the combination of different grains, stocks, flavourings and methods of cookery, you can ring the changes to make a huge variety of dishes. I always keep risotto rice in the cupboard and it is a firm family favourite.
The three most popular grains of risotto rice you'll find are:
Arborio The most popular grain, it is large and rounded and has a wonderful creamy texture. I have used this in my recipe today as it is very widely available now.
Carnaroli - this long, elegant grain that tends to hold its shape well even when completely cooked. It's a good choice if you find your risotto always turns a little mushy.
Vialone nano although this can be difficult to get hold of, this has the creamiest, smoothest texture of all.
Girolle Risotto;
Ingredients; ( 4 persons )
1 Shallot finally diced
25g Olive oil
10g unsalted Butter
200g Arborio rice
1/2 L Vegetable Stock
1 ml of Dry Martini
5g Hard unsalted Butter
50g Parmigiano Reggiano
100g of Fresh Girolles (mushrooms)

Method ;
1.Saute the Shallot in 15g of Olive Oil and the Butter without colouring. Add the Martini
2. Wash the rice and add to the shallots, cook it slowly for about five minutes constantly stirring . Season with salt and pepper.
3. Add 1/4 of the stock and cook until the rice has absorbed the stock
4. Wash and sauté 50g of Girolles for one minute add the mushrooms to the rice
5.  Add the remainder of the stock in two parts. Cook until creamy and al
dente
6. Grate the Cheese and add  40g of Parmigiano and  the remaining Butter  to  the rice. Correct the Seasoning
7  With the remainder of the parmigiano sprinkle it  onto Parchment Paper  in 6-cm circles cook in a oven at 110c for minutes to soften and bind together for a tuille
8. Sauté the rest of the Mushrooms, season and use for garnish.
 
 
 

Dumplings and Risotto

Dumplings and Risotto
 
Today I am once again looking at two other basic in a cook’s repertoire – dumplings and risotto - which can act an accompaniment to a whole range of dishes, or a dish in itself and in the case of risotto, a wonderful starter or main course meal on its own.
 
I always associate dumplings with my childhood.  In the winter, when it was really cold outside my mum used to cook them with Boiling Fowl and Root Vegetables. They are also great in stews, soups or casseroles, where the  balls of dough sit, partly submerged in the cooking juices, and expand as they are half-boiled half-steamed for ten minutes or so. The cooked dumplings are airy on the inside and moist on the outside.  Mmmmmm!
 
Dumplings can also be sweet of course.
 
However it is savoury dumplings that I am focusing on today.  the ones which are a part of our traditional Irish cuisine.  Originally intended to make up a filling meal in winter, and perhaps to stretch a dish further, and now a rare treat.
 
Dumplings
 
Ingredients; ( 4 persons )
2 Shallots   finally diced
100g unsalted Butter
10 ml Olive Oil
800g Old Bread
250g White Flour
7 eggs
1/2 L of Milk
30g Chives, tarragon, and Flat Leaf Parsley
10g Sea salt
5g Fresh Milled White Pepper
Method;
1. Break the Bread into small pieces.  Add the milk and soften for about 15 minutes
2. Sauté the shallots in butter and the olive oil until lightly brown.  Remmove and place into a bowl and cool.
3. Add the softened bread with the shallots.  Chop the herbs and add them to the mix.  Follow by adding the flour, then the eggs and  season.  Mix into a dough.
4. Rest for 30 minutes
5.  Roll out the dough into as long strips and cut into 10g pieces  and roll into small balls.
6.Poach the dumplings in Chicken Stock for 15 minutes
 

Stock and sauces

Stocks and sauces ;
What is a stock? Le Guide Cuilinaire, the following basic culinary preparations;
Escoffier noted in the first Chapter of his classic work Le Guide Cuilinaire, the following basic culinary preparations;
1. Stocks and Broth used for soups
2. Brown and White stock used for sauces and thickened gravies.
3. Fume and essence used to flavor the so-called small sauces.
Not much have changed with regard to the basic stock items

A stock is a liquid flavored which is made from from meat, poultry, fish Bones and Vegetables stock is made from Bulbous and Root Vegetables and they are flavored with Herbs and spices accordingly If you combine quality ingredients with the correct procedure you will make a great stock! Stocks are used to make soups and sauces, they are also used in cooking many specialty dishes. Stock making techniques are
basic skills but they take practice to master. Every Chef knows from experience that a good stock will compliment and enhance good dish !

The stocks in any kitchen is the Oil of the Engine it is so important to have a good stock as it is only then can you make a good Sauce, Soup
We will Break down the Different Stock and for each item there is a stock but we will cover the basic stocks first
You may ask why bother with a stock , Well it is very simple Flavor, Flavor taste smell that’s it.
It is the base for great sauces. The trouble with the Bouillon you buy in the shop it is a chemical base product and you can taste it, This at least you know how it’s made it tastes as you want it and you can freeze it in small quantities and use it as you like .
Don’ t be put off by the process as some stocks only take 20 min or so to cook and
others a few hours
WHITE STOCKS:
White stock is made from the meat bones, Veal, beef , poultry, Fish and Vegetables.
The bones are frequently blanched in order to remove any impurities that might cloud or discolor the finished. Ordinary white stock is classic prepared from Veal meat and bones with the addition of a miripoix.
Poultry is used with the whole bird and carcasses.
a white veal stock some times referred to as a neutral stock is often prepared by first simmering the stock at a high temperature then would be used for most stocks with a nearly neutral flavor.
Brown Stock One of the most commonly used stock in the kitchen. Brown stocks are prepared by first cooking meat bones and meat trimmings to a deep brown color, as well as the miripoix before they are simmered as this changes both the flavor and the color of the finish stock. Brown stocks are the foundation for all brown sauces.
Remouillage
The word translates as a rewetting which is a good way to think of the way that remouillage is made. Bones used to prepare a primary stock are reserved after the first stock is strained away from the bones , the bones are then covered with water and a secondary stock is prepared and this is used to make the primary stock instead of water.
Broth
broth has many similarities with stocks. These are prepared in essentially the same fashion. Meaty bones or in some cases the entire cut of meat, bird or fish are simmered in water or remouillage or a prepared stock along with vegetables and other aromatic ingredients.
Fume or Essence
An Essence is a highly flavored infusion made from from a good stock and wild mushrooms, Truffle, Vegetables, spices and so forth.
Court Bouillon
A quick stock often used for cooking of Lobster and Crawfish
The ingredients are aromatic vegetables, herbs, lemons and water.
Mise en Place( Preparing)
1. Assemble all ingredients required for stock
2. the basic elements for any stock is
Remmoulage or Cold water
The major flavoring components
Aromatics and other flavoring ingredients.
Pots used for stocks are usually taller than they are wide. Some have taps that can be used to remove the finished stock with out disturbing the bones.
ladles should be on hand to remove scum from the stock as it simmers .
Sieves ,colanders and Muslin cloth are used to separate bones and vegetables from the stock.
So here we go
Fish Stock ;
Ingredients;
2-kg black Sole Bones
2-kg Whiting Bones

100g Onion Peeled
1 Leek
I Celery
150g Mushroom trimmings
1 Bouquet Garni ( 115g Celery heart, Flat Leaf Parsley stems,Fresh Thyme Sprig, 1 bay Leaf, 1 Leaf of Green Leek, 1 Pice of String , wash all and neatly put them together and tie them with a pice of String)
30g Whole White Pepper Corns
1/2 L Dry White Wine
1/4 Dry Martini
50 ml of Olive Oil
4 l of Water
1 cartush (
Method ;
1. Heat the pot, add the Olive oil, Chop the Vegetables into 4-cm pieces. add to the pot and cook with out coloring
2. Wash the Fish Bones and add to the pot cook slowly for five minuets with out coloring, add the Peppercorns, Mushroom Trimmings and Bouquet Garni,
3. Add the White wine and Martini, cook for a further five minuets, Add the water bring to the boil and remove the impurities from the top of the stock, Turn down the heat and simmer for 20 Minuets, Skim as necessary.
Remove and rest for fifteen minuets, Strain the stock using a Muslin Cloth and strainer.
(Wet the cloth so it sticks to the strainer)
This should give you about 2 1/2 l of Fish stock.
Place the stock in a bath of Cold water to cool it down quickly store in a refrigerator
when Cold it should set like a jelly this is the sigh of a good stock.
You can also freeze in small quantities.
Chicken Stock;
This is best using Boiling Fowl
Ingredients;
3 Boiling Fowls about 1 kg each
500g of Miripoix( Carrot, Leek,Celery sticks, Onion, garlic)
1 Small Bunch of Thyme
1 Small Bunch of Tarragon
1 Small Bunch of Parsley
5 l of water or Remouillage
50 g of Whole White Pepper corns
1 Bouquet garni
Method;
1.Wash the Chickens in running water place in a pot cover with water and bring to the boil refresh with cold water I do this to remove any impurities from the Chicken.
2. Place the chicken in a pot, add the Mirepoix with the herbs ,Pepper corns and Bouquet garni
3. Add the water or Remouillage, bring to the boil and turn down the heat and simmer for approximately 5 1/2 Hours, Skim the surface frequently to remove the impurities
4. Rest the stock for 20 minuets and Strain through a muslin cloth and strainer, Cool down in a bath of cold water, cover and Refregriate again you can freeze in small quantities
I also do a triple stock and this is done by doing the exact same thing three times each time using the same stock and fresh Chickens it is really superb.
Vegetable Stock or Nage ;
this stock i use for Vegetarians and Making Risotto
Ingredients;
200g New season Onions
200g Leeks
6 Celery Hearts
4 Whole Carrots
2 Whole Fennel Bulbs
10 Baby Fennel
7 Radish
20 whole white Pepper Corns
10 Star Anise
3 cloves
5g Fennel Seed
1 Small Bunch of Basil
1 small Bunch of Tarragon
1. small Bunch of Flat leaf parsley
1 Small Bunch of Dill
1/2 l of Dry Martini
1/2 L of dry white wine
4 L of Still Water
Method;
1. Wash and Peel all the Vegetables 2. Place in a pot with the rest of the Ingredients add the wine, martini and Water.
3. Bring to the boil and turn down the heat and simmer slowly for 2 Hours.
4. Cool down
5. Place the Vegetables and stock in a Preserving Jar. Refregriate
Brown Stock;
Veal Bones
Veal Feet
Miripoix
Fresh Herbs
Whole White Peppercorns
Remouillage
Olive Oil
Thyme
Bay Leaf
Red Wine
Method ;
1. Brown the Bones in a deep roasting pan and place in a hot oven at 170c, turn the bones in the oven to make sure they are evenly brown
2. Remove the bones and place in a stock pot, remove the Fat( and Discard)
De-glaze the roasting pan with red wine and a little Water ( this is done by replacing the roasting pan on direct heat to clean the pan cook for two minuets and pour into the stock pot.
3. Add a Veal foot to the stock and fill the pot with the remouliage. There should be a 1/4 more stock to bones, bring to the boil and simmer, Remove the scum from the top, Simmer for eight hours
4. Add the Miripoix and herbs and cook for a further two hours, all the time remove the impurities from the top of the stock.
5. Strain the stock into a pot using a strainer and Muslin Cloth
Cool the stock in a bath of Iced Water, cover and refregriate until further use.
The stock should be a jelly substance this is cause by the Gelatins from the bones and the Veal feet, There will also be a cover of fat on the top this is important as it protects the stock.
Sauces;
There are several types of Sauces I will cover the Principle Sauces. and later on when I am talking about a sauce for a pitucular dish you will be able refer to the principle Sauces
Brown
White,
Cream, Champagne,
Butter; Hollandaise, Bernaise,
Brown;